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Why go to Leiden? I wanted to go for the University. I had read that the University of Leiden, home to Descartes and Grotius, had some very interesting museums. Unfortunately, we needed an appointment to get in to the Anatomical and Surgery Museum. Shucks. But we did hit the little museum of the University itself. Then, wondering around the neighborhood, we passed a sign for a museum that said "Coins, medals, antiquities." Tom wanted to go in, so I acquiesced. |
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Much to my pleasure, it was actually the museum I had read about as one of the treasures of the Netherlands: the Rijksmuseum van Oudheden, or National Museum of Antiquities. Tom and I agreed that it was one of the best, most enjoyable museums we had ever toured. It traced the Netherlands' history from about 45000 BC to the 20th Century, from ancient wooden wheels 5000 years old to how dams and canals were constructed. It also had an extensive collection of Egyptian, Greek, Roman, and Etruscan antiquities, including a complete Egyptian tomb (given by the Government of Egypt) and an extensive collection of Greek vases. This museum was superbly laid out, combining four old buildings around a courtyard that had been covered with a glass dome. The exhibits were very viewable, the descriptions useful (except a few lacked English translations, and I would have appreciated knowing the original source of many of the items), and the layout superb. |
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Then we went looking for the Burcht (while eating croquettes). After walking around at angles and in circles, we finally found the 12th Century castle that was at the heart of Leiden, just at twilight. It was a circular wall on a hill; you could climb the hill AND the wall and get extraordinary views of the city all around you. Then, with dagretour in hand, we headed back to Amsterdam. |
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