On Wednesdays and Saturdays, Arles hosts big markets on two of its main boulevards, Emile Coombes (on Wednesday and Saturday) and Coombes and Clemenceau (on Saturday). The mid-week market is smaller, and features mainly produce and meats; the Saturday market is bigger, and has everything from antiques to fine foods. After a bout of badgering, I convinced Tom we were obligated to hit at least one of these markets, so we went on Wednesday's mid-morning affair.

My first thought was of the old Maxwell Street market in Chicago--a mountain of junk. But after we got past the first couple of blocks, the produce, fruit, veggies, meats, cheeses, and fresh-cooked foods (like paella) began to dominate, full of color and texture and smell!

Rue Emille Coombes, start of market