On Wednesday, we headed back into Naples, to focus on the National Archeological Museum. I was very excited at the idea of finally seeing the Farnese collection, as well as the many treasures from Pompeii (including, I hoped, the contents of the infamous "secret cabinet").
The walk from the train station to the museum took us through a wonderful residential area. The building facades were shockingly beautiful, with rich colors and textures. (We were bemused by the metal steering wheel covers—to prevent car theft—we saw everywhere!)
The Museum itself was quite a show. I had heard that its collection was impressive, and I was particularly interested in seeing the Farnese sculpture collection; it did not disappoint!
Upon entering the Museum, you walk down a long corridor lined with antique sculptures, into the hall that holds the grandest of the Farnese collection. I had seen the Hercules statue in many books, and was never impressed by it. Seeing it in real life was much better—a powerful, yet tired, Hercules. I was shocked at how many pieces of sculpture I recognized from art history books; I had no idea they ALL were in Naples!
But the piece I really came to see was the Farnese Bull. This single block of marble represents Dirce being tied to the horns of a bull, as punishment for trying to trick her stepsons into murdering their own mother. Around the base were carved hundreds of little animals (fish, goats, turtles, lions, and more) representing "naturalness."
On the first floor up the grand staircase we found the Pompeii collection, including the erotica of the "secret cabinet" (no, I didn't take any pictures of the porn), as well as wall after wall of art and mosaics. I particularly liked the duck mosaic from Pompeii.
The most curious aspect of the "secret cabinet" was not the rather tame X-rated materials; it was the reaction of the visitors. We noticed that American parents left their children outside, but Italian parents (such as a delightful grandmotherly type with her 10-year-old grandaughter) took their children through the exhibit and carefully explained what the images represented!
